Beyond Dubai’s Glitz and Glamour

“It’s a desert with two big malls in it. You won’t like it.” Before visiting, my impression of Dubai was based only on these comments from a couple friends who had already been there. Once I arrived, I realized that the city does a damn good job to erase the idea that you’re really just…

Alive in Lisbon: Sounds of Alfama

The first day it was already night when I arrived at my apartment in Alfama, suitcase wheels attacking dark cobblestone alleys like unbalanced bombs. They wanted me to surrender, I had already given away too much. Why keep moving? Counterforce children are throwing their own, and my leg is hit by a water balloon explosion.…